Thanks to Andy in NY for posting R. Warden's original work to the museum.  Without his instructions, I would have had a much tougher time with the doors.  Hopefully these illustrated instructions will be helpful!

Updated - I just received a tip on removing the plastic "AIRBAG" screw cover. Thanks to Barry in Silicon Valley for posting a tip that he got from Lynn Webber on the Babblers Board.

If you happen to find any problems, or have further comments that others might find helpful (particularly any better hints for the plastic cover on the door pull) please

Disconnect the battery ground.  This is a particularly important precaution for vehicles with side airbags.  Make sure you have your radio code first!	Remove the plastic cover that surrounds the door pull.  This is one of the most difficult pieces to remove and requires some force and quite a bit of finesse.
Looking from underneath the plastic cover, you'll notice a small indentation in the center.  You can work a flathead screwdriver in here and begin prying the cover up from the bottom.  This may be easier while pulling the door handle open.	Here is a photo showing the removed cover.  You'll notice that there's very little actually holding this in place.  There is a plastic hook on the cover that fits into a hole on the door.  See next photo for close-up...
This plastic hook is not particularly strong.  I advise keeping a finger over this area (rear top of the cover) while trying to work it free of the door.  This will greatly decrease your chances of snapping the hook.  It's fairly easily repaired with epoxy if you happen to fail.  I did on my first one.	Using a #30 Torx driver, remove the torx screw behind the plastic cover you just removed.  This is a long screw that holds the door pull in place and should be pretty tight.
The second Torx screw is behind a plastic cover.  On the door pull, just forward of the storage cubby, remove the plastic C-shaped cover.  It comes off pretty easily if you hold the bottom securely with your thumb and pry the top away from the door panel.	With the same Torx driver, remove the second Torx screw from the door pull (behind the clip you just removed.)  It's even longer than the first, and should be just as tight.  Note that there is a plastic piece behind this area of the door pull which is removable.  There is no need to remove it.
Another brief side note... you'll notice that the back of the C-shaped cover is marked to indicate which side is up, and which side of the vehicle it came from.	Next remove the phillips head screw from behind the door handle.  You'll need to hold the door handle open, so be careful not to scratch it with your screwdriver.
The second phillips head screw is located inside the storage cubby.  The screw is plastic and it is somewhat difficult to remove with a screwdriver alone.  If you push hard enough for the screwdriver to seat in the head of the screw, it may force the screw to jump the threads and go back in again!  Try using something to apply some back pressure.  Pictured here is a door panel removal tool.  You *can* remove the screw with this alone - just pull it straight out and it will jump all the threads.  This probably isn't the approved method but it does work.  YMMV.	Next you need to remove the plastic piece labelled "AIRBAG" which covers a short Torx screw.  I suggest using a flathead screwdriver with a cloth covering it to protect the door panel.  Looking at my own photos, it might be easier to go in at either the front or back of this piece, instead of the bottom as shown here.  Study the photos and use your judgement.  The piece is uniform and is just pressure fitted in place.  I just received a great tip -- "use something like 20 lb. fishline slid under one corner of the plug, then wrap the fishline around a bar (like a hammer handle) the plugs can be pulled off without incident"
Here's a closeup of the removed cover.  As you can see, the fishline trick might be an ideal way to avoid damage.	Using your Torx driver again, remove the screw from inside the airbag opening.  Note that this is a very short screw and could be dropped.  I'm not sure how easily it would be retrieved, so I was very careful.  Like the door pull screws, this one will also be very tight.
Next you have to remove the sail panel (triangle-shaped plastic at the front corner of the door.)  Take a look at the series of photos so you'll see exactly how it's attached.  I suggest using a panel puller inserted as shown.  A screwdriver should work okay.	As you pry the bottom of the panel away from the door, three pins will pop out of their sockets.  Once it pops out, stop prying.  The panel will be removed in an *upward* motion.  See the next photos...
You can clearly see the three sockets in the door, and the three pins on the sail panel.  You don't have to pry the panel too far out for the pins to be free of the sockets.	The sail panel has a hook that hangs in an opening on the door.  Once the three pins are free, just slide the sail panel straight up.  You might need to wiggle it a little, but this should come free easily without damage.
Finally, use a panel removal tool (or flathead screwdriver and fingers) to pop out the clips on the front, bottom and rear of the panel.  These are standard door clips - roughly nine of them I believe.  You can see several of them in the following photos.	Once the clips are free, lift the entire panel up and off the door.  You might be tempted to grab the door pull (grab bar) to lift the panel. Don't!  With the screws removed, this is not a sturdy piece and is easily damaged - believe me. There is no need to do so, but if you want to remove it from the panel, slide it straight forwrad, not up! There are three cables between the door and panel that you need to be aware of - the one on the right (above) can be removed easily... power for the door handle I believe.  The other two (door handle cable and door light power cable) can be left in place.
With the one power cable removed, the door panel can easily be leaned against the door.  If you're just planning to do some speaker work, there shouldn't be any need to remove the door handle cable mechanism.  I didn't look at it too closely given bad experiences with them in the past.	Finally, here you can see the rear of the panel (looking down behind it in the same orientation as the photo to the left.)  For reference, my hand is at the rear middle of the panel.  The cable on the right is the door handle cable, and the one on the left is the power for the door safety light.
If you've come this far, congratulations!  Hopefully you're adding something special to your Boxster.  Follow the directions in reverse to install the panel again. Good luck! - Jason

Last modified: Wednesday, 30-May-2001 18:25:59 EDT
Copyright 2001, Ecoutez!, Ltd.